Set under two railway arches, this boldly styled restaurant is centred around a huge communal table. Listed in size order, the modern British dishes are far more complex than they first appear and show tremendous skill from the kitchen. They often comprise three main ingredients, all working in perfect harmony to achieve a great balance of flavours: beef tartare, for example, might be complemented by a deep pepper sauce and some perfectly thin crisps for added texture. The interesting wine list has an emphasis on small-scale and low-intervention producers.