Billing itself as ‘a kappo for grown-ups’, Nijo Aritsune maintains a dignified tenor while offering a broad range of à la carte items. While elaborate dishes are the establishment’s forte, familiar friends such as chargrilled chicken meatballs and croquettes are on offer too. In a fresh take on rice topped with raw egg, only the whites of the eggs are whipped. ‘Aritsune’ means ‘changing so that things will not change’. An evolution of Japanese cuisine through a modern sensibility.