Set beside a historic slipway, this intimate little timber building looks out over a windmill and traditional sailing barges on the picturesque harbour – a picture-postcard scene best admired from one of the terraces. Lagom is the Swedish concept of "just the right amount", a philosophy chefs Hugo Hond, Peele Koops and Mees Rozendaal put into practice with a focus on contemporary flavour profiles and local ingredients. They enjoy playing with textures and have an eye for attractive presentation. Take the cauliflower, for example, served in various forms – puréed, fried and pickled – with a fresh, subtly spicy piccalilli gel, crunchy almonds and lovage oil. Fittingly, this is understated cooking that strikes just the right balance between bold flavours.