Chef Johnny Curiel has already established himself as an adept of contemporary Mexican cuisine, but at this rarefied workshop, his aims are more ambitious still. A multifaceted tasting menu studiously marries tradition with invention, celebrating regional cuisines. The myriad of distinctive moles stitched throughout the meal illustrates the point, from a beet-tinted mole rosa dotting a bluefin tuna flauta, to a robust mole amarillo matched with American wagyu and hearty ayocote beans. The meal ends with a satisfying yet whimsical flourish of warm chocolatey champurrado poured over an atole mousse in the shape of a corn cob. Service is seamless and warmly hospitable, and both striking cocktails and a singular assortment of top-flight Mexican wines are sure to impress.