The Hogsalt restaurant group isn’t known for restraint and this is certainly true of its latest venture—a saucy, Italian-American looker that goes full-speed ahead in its charming, throwback setting, with bold flavors and hearty portions.Pastas are made in-house, and first timers will want to sample the lasagna Bolognese rotolo, a creative riff on the classic and far lighter than it sounds. Coal-roasted half chicken with slow-roasted garlic, fried oregano and jus is a favorite, and of course, there must be dessert, especially that booze- heavy and decadent tiramisu.