The playful, vintage décor with fake tree trunks and red lanterns is aptly matched by a menu disguised as a martial arts instruction book. In addition to famous Sichuanese wok-fried dishes such as green chilli ‘ruthless’ chicken and braised swamp eel, we also recommend the daily specials up on the whiteboard. Seasonal offerings like bitter bamboo shoot and milk cap mushroom are worth a try. Inevitably packed to the seams, book ahead and arrive early.