There's an appealingly relaxed, cosy feel to this neighbourhood restaurant, where the downstairs room benefits from the atmosphere of an on-view kitchen. An imaginative streak runs through dishes based around top-notch seasonal ingredients that are either foraged or organic, while preserving and pickling also play a key role on the well-balanced and deftly prepared tasting menu. Highlights could include the likes of Wagyu beef with black bean ketchup and a terrific Bordelaise sauce. The astutely chosen wine flight creates the perfect partnership.