A skylight in the pitched roof bathes the main room in natural light; the private rooms and balcony also feel cosy. An inquisitive soul by nature, veteran chef Dai spent time in Japan studying plant-based ingredients. His menu follows the seasons and may include his signature "porcini, green pepper, sea salt" with Yunnan mushrooms chargrilled to impart smoky aromas. The famous tofu is steeped in broth and intoxicating flavours.