Set within a Victorian-era building marked by bluestone masonry and a veranda with cast-iron lacework, Orso attracts a sophisticated crowd. There is a convivial mood here, with regulars coming and going. While the ambience is far from serious, the kitchen is, with a laser focus on superbly fresh, seasonal ingredients. Expect skillful dishes such as ling rubbed with smoked spice, broad bean salad and verde emulsion, or citrus-cured Atlantic salmon with a crunchy apple brunoise. Abrolhos Island scallops are cooked in the shell with 'nduja and a honey glaze on the open fire for a tasty dish. The wine list features a collection of Australian, French and Italian bottles, with many available by the glass.